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'56
GoldTop in pictures
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details
-wiring in pictures
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comparisons in pictures
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Technical
Specifications
Body mahogany
Carved Top Alder
Neck mahogany
Fingerboard Rosewood
2 Pickups Alnico-V P90s
Binding neck and body
Chromed Hardware
Nut width1,68", scale 24,75"
weight 8,27 lbs (3,75 kg)
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Amazingly the back color is Dark Cherry,
an unusual colour for a '56Goldtop which came for most of them with
light brown or allgold backs..
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the junction between the two massive
pieces of wood of the body can be seen on this picture
The stock cavity covers are cream whereas original ones are brown for clear
backs and black for light ones.
Gibson Les Paul
covers do not fit on this guitar
Back
covers come from Guitarfetish-Store
for about $10 -shipping to France inclued
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Modern
Epiphone serial numbers are built following
this way
I = *plant
02 = year (one or two figures)
10 = month
2530 =ordinal number
Stock Tuners are Kluson reproductions with a weak gearing 12:1 I changed
them for Gotoh Vintage Keystone-style tuner of 16:1. (Cost $ 35)
You need to change the post and use these sold with the tuners, Epiphone
ones being to narrow.
*Plants:
DW = DeaWon (China)
EA = Gibson/QuingDao (China)
EE = Gibson/QuingDao (China)
I = Saein (Korea)
MC = Muse (China)
R = Peerless (Korea)
S = Samick (Korea)
SJ = SaeJung (China)
U = Unsung (Korea)
and
B stands for Bohêmia Musico-Delicia (Czech
Republic)
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I changed the
chromed Epiphone ABR (TuneOMactic)for a Gotoh 3958 (made for an archtop)
and
so I did the tailpiece with an Alu StopBar Gotoh 5740-N. Both are Nickeled and of a better
craftmanship.(Cost $ 60)
Gotoh bushes are to thin do not fit so
I kept Epiphone stock.
I had to reshape the
stopbar bushings removing their rings
Zigzagged poles (following Dan
Erweline recommendations) can be seen.
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Another view of the tuneomatic and of
the tailpiece
For the
TOM I had the choice between a model keeping large bushings (Gotoh
1511-N), an ABR1 clone (Gotoh 0167-N) but my choice went to a
more modern model destinated to an archtop guitar ( Gotoh 3958)
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Many things can be seen
here:
-New "switchcraft" jack (cost $ 3)
The stock plate was fixed
of through . I put a new home made one larger to hide the original
holes.I also changed the pots and their knobs. Potentiomètres are 500
KOhm (cost $ 12). I also added Knob Position Indicators (Cost $ 4)
I finally found engraved figurereflector knobsJ (Cost $ 10 - GreggRogers
Guitars).
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The first thing I
changed was the Toggle switch. I change it first for a Stewmac one
(Cost $
12 + $ 1.25 for its knob) then
for a Switchcraft more acurate to the Gibson specifications.($15)
But like for the CTS pots, holes must be
rebored to accept Switchcraft deep thread round nickel nut (allpart ref:ep
4923-001).
I changed
the ring with a more accurate Gibson one (cream and gold)
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Here a close-up picture of the three-part neck
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Close up of the switch and the
strap lock
I changed
the knob with an amber one even if the rule seems to be gold knob
controls cream switch knob.
I
put Schallers straplocks (Cost $ 13) instead of stock strap buttons.I had
to fill holes with toothpick to screw the new buttons with their Schaller
narrower screws
I changed the toogle ring for
a stewmac one.
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A
two-screw Gibson bell cover. Set with a $1 tap washer.(rubber tap
seal)
How
I did it
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My guitar spending its night in its
flight-case SKB -56 (old model bought on a special offer for $ 50)
If you look sharply you can see a Gibson-Lewy's strap given by the shop
keeper (Blanc Music Ajaccio)
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The
modified tailpiece bushing.
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Over wrapping, tThe best way to keep
sustain without abandoning the playability.
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SETUP
Gibson
Brite
Wires 10 - 46
Action
(taken at the 12th fret)
(with
a capo at first fret)
Bass
1/16" (~ 1.5 mm)
Treble
3/64" (~ 1.25mm)
PU
hight (Pole piece )
Neck
1/16"
(~ 1.5 mm)
Bridge
3/32" (~ 2.5 mm)
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